Hall sensor response (DRV5056A1)

[mprinz]

Not crash, it just closed... during update

[thenewdrummer]

Did it solve your noise problem?

I was about to buy the components for the controller but I saw your post so I decided to wait for your feedback

[mprinz]

It does! Together with the shorterning the wires to the sensor.

[thenewdrummer]

It does! Together with the shorterning the wires to the sensor.

Is the capacitor directly on the sensor or you placed it on your breadboard?

[Rob]

The 0.1 uF capacitor should go as close as possible to the sensor.

If you are using long wires from the power supply to the sensor, an additional 10uF capacitor would probably also help.

I'll also mention that the quality of the power supply is important to consider. Be careful about using cheap SMPS as they tend to be noisy.

[mprinz]

Hi Rob, thanks for your comment.

I modified the magnet to sensor alignment as recommend in the DRV5056 datasheet.
More or less... Anyway, I don't have a dip due to the quite inhomogenous flux on the magnetic pole.
I have to change to a cubic magnet, so it's not wobbling around when the pole faces the sensor.

It is configured that way, that the Hall sensor works in the more linear response range at larger distances
when the pedal is pressed down. So I have a better playable, more realistic feeling in changes between the postitions tight and closed, splashes etc.

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[dsteinschneider]

Hi @mprinz,

Do you have a TRS female jack connected to the sensor in the photo above?

I'm always researching how people are implementing this simple but incredibly great way to track movement.

Doug

[mprinz]

Hi,

yes, I have. If I leave it like this,I will change the single wires to a microphone cable or control cable.
I never took a trigger cable apart. Is it shielded like a mic cable.
And hi hat controller cables?

[dsteinschneider]

Hi mprinz,

I didn't realize to now when I watched your videos on Google Drive and came back to this thread that you asked a question last post here in this thread. I'm not sure this is the answer but I cut one of my TRS cables and the sleeve was attached to the braid shielding wires that surround the white and red plastic coated tip and ring wires.

I noticed in your video that you get a much wider green bar than my Hall effect sensor setup. Mine is currently at the bottom but my current design (a SmallRig clamp is holding the 1" wide metal plate ( 1/16" thick aluminum strut harvested out of a dell computer) that my polycase enclosed sensor and jack is attached to. The sensor is glued inside the polycase with the rounded off sides away from where the magnet comes down to meet it (the flat side is against where the magnet comes down to meet it).

My magnets look like little boomerangs - they are harvested from harddrives. I have a pair attached to the chain - I used some "InstaMorph" plastic to hold it perfectly stable even though the magnet stays in place fairly well without it. I had to orient the pair a certain direction for the sensor to work. I'm wondering how you know which is North and South.

I see you went from 4 or 5 magnets to just a pair.

Do you mind explaining what the breadboard does? Is is just to get the power from 9 volts to 3.3 and filter it.

I have my E10 connected to a D-Link DUB-H4 4 port USB 2 powered hub that comes with a 5 volt 2.4 amp power supply. I'm not supply separate power to the sensor.

Thanks,

Doug

[mprinz]

Oh dear ...
Sorry, Doug!
This evening I am reading your last post.
I just want to check, what I have written with regard to the DRV5056A1, because the discussion continues...

viewtopic.php?f=33&p=7154#p7154

The green bar... You are using the SS49E?
That's why I ask Rob, what he meant with resolution in the thread cited above.
Please refer to that posting. I ordered several neodymium magnets in different shapes.
The "final" magnet was one of the ring magnet... somehow... that works best...

magnets

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Maybe you use a too weak magnet for a sensor with huge magnet range.
Or the sensor is already at 50% of its magnetic range with open hats, and already gives e.g. 2.5V output,
so there are just 0.5 V left for your travel range.

I was moving the magnet around with the edrumin in calibration mode. So I could instantly see the signal the modul receives.

I also want to test a ringmagnet to be able to mount the sensor below the cymbals and could use a drop clutch.
But - just today I read here about a nice idea to switch to the closed hihat via the note bank.

I think, that the ring magnet right above the sensor would be to close. You ran into saturation, meaning the magnet is that close that the magnetic flux density is higher than the max. magnetic range that can be detected by the sensor...
so you close (or open) the hats and the edrumin isn't able to see that. EDIT: I had to lower the bottom hihat with the sensor...

The thing with North/South: Texas Instruments wrote in the data sheet that the sensor responds only to South (I guess, it was).

Hopefully, this is still helpfull ...

Greetings