Powering a Hall effect sensor from the ED10 USB Host Port

[Rob]

Read back about 3 posts

[dsteinschneider]

Hi Rob, I did see you mentioning I could skip the resistors as far as operation goes but might be taking a chance if there was a short. If something can go wrong with my wiring .........

One last question - it seems like I might want to swap out my A1302 for one that runs on 3.3 (or close) volts? Which sensor are you using?

[dsteinschneider]

Here is mine without external power from the USB port:



It's wider than in the past - it might be because I recently re-adjusted the stand and the sensor.

[Rob]

That should be more than enough range. I bet it's not going to work well however because the datasheet clearly states that it need 4.6 V to operate properly. If a sensor is under powered, it might not respond quickly enough or the signal will not be stable.

Have you tried it using power from the USB host port yet?

[dsteinschneider]

I have the USB portion wired up to the sleeve and ring of a female TRS it's getting 5.0 volts from my Dell tower (will swap it over to the E10 host port - the tower USB is available at my workbench). My plan is to plug the existing TRS cable coming from the pedal into this female TRS and the run the common, ring and tip out to a male TRS to plug back into the E10. I'll screenshot the calibration tomorrow when I finish this. Thanks for the advice!

[Rob]

Don't connect the ring with 5V back to the pedal input of the eDRUMin. The sensor needs that 5V, but the eDRUMin doesn't.

[dsteinschneider]

Hi Rob,

I used one of the little project boxes I got for adding triggers to Pintech cymbals.


I installed two TRS female jacks:
- the left one accepts the TRS cable from the pedal and has the power from the USB connected to the ring and common to the sleeve (I cut a USB cable and it goes into the back of the box - red to ring, black to sleeve).
- the one on the right (not shown in photo) goes into the pedal input and has just the tip and sleeve connected to the above input

Here is the new calibration:


Interesting that the green bar moved all the way to the right - I'm wondering what that means?

This improved how the pedal plays. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I had created a curve that expanded the initial release of the pedal. I was able to remove that. When I release the pedal the E10 responds more smoothly so it's easier play with more degrees of partial close. I also had widened the travel to about 1 inch - I think I will go back to .75 inch (20mm).

Thanks for the advice - this is a big improvement

[Rob]

I'm slightly concerned now that the calibration range goes all the way to far right. This indicates that the tip is likely seeing more than 3.3V. You might be able to adjust your magnet to prevent the calibration range from going all the way to the right.

It probably won't cause problems as is, but I'm still going to recommend you switch to a 3.3V sensor (SS49E).

[lalo]

My drone optical controller also goes all the way to the right, powered by the USB host of the edrumin10 or by a 5V external adaptor.

[dsteinschneider]

I will build another with the SS49E and report back. Thanks for all the advice!