TranslationDrum Map problem
Drum Map problem
I just git an eDRUMin 10 and I'm having a heck of a time getting this thing set up to trigger Superior Drummer 3 properly. About half my pads don't register a sound at all. The rest trigger properly, or trigger the wrong sound. I've tried using the Superior Drummer 3 drum map, but it doesn't seem to do anything. For example, my kick drum keeps showing up as a snare hit, F#-2. It should be C1. So I open the drum map and select the kick, and it changes to C1. And then I hit the drum, and it still triggers a snare sound. Sometimes it will still say C1 on the trigger settings page, sometimes it will go back to F#-2. Then I tried the MIDI Learn function in SD3, and my kick pedal triggers a kick sound - but now my snare also triggers a kick sound. About 30 seconds later, they're both triggering a snare sound again, without me having done anything. It makes no sense.
Re: Drum Map problem
Hi MJB,
That definitely sounds strange. What firmware version are you using?
That definitely sounds strange. What firmware version are you using?
Re: Drum Map problem
I admit that I too have somtime some problem setting the note number.
Me I experience that changing the note in bank 2 sometimes change also the note in bank 1.
I'm not that conern about it because after 2 or 3 tries it was OK and I don't change the note numbers so often. But for a first time user it could be annoying.
I can try to reproduce if needed Rob.
Me I experience that changing the note in bank 2 sometimes change also the note in bank 1.
I'm not that conern about it because after 2 or 3 tries it was OK and I don't change the note numbers so often. But for a first time user it could be annoying.
I can try to reproduce if needed Rob.
Re: Drum Map problem
Again, telling me about bugs and not mentioning a version number is not going to be productive.
Re: Drum Map problem
Running the latest non-beta, v1.3.2.19.Rob wrote:Hi MJB,
That definitely sounds strange. What firmware version are you using?
Re: Drum Map problem
Make sure you aren't changing the bank numbers. Have you got a hihat controller plugged in the back? If so, what make and model is it?
Re: Drum Map problem
Hi-hat controller is an ATV.
Re: Drum Map problem
Version 1.3 can sometimes have issues with the pedal sensing feature and it's possible that your hihat controller momentarily gets detected as a footswitch and ends up changing the note bank.
You can prevent this from happening by clicking on the hihat icon in the pedal editor thus disabling the pedal sensing function.
I'm not sure if this is your problem, but it's the only thing I can think of that might explain what you are seeing.
You can prevent this from happening by clicking on the hihat icon in the pedal editor thus disabling the pedal sensing function.
I'm not sure if this is your problem, but it's the only thing I can think of that might explain what you are seeing.
Re: Drum Map problem
I think I'm trying to do too much at once. I was trying to sort of simultaneously set up the eDRUMin to trigger both SD3 (by USB) and my Mimic (by MIDI) and it's just not working.
Not only that, but I'm having a heck of a time with the calibration. I watched your video on pad set up and it looks very simple and intuitive, and everything just works. And then I try it myself and my experience couldn't be more different. My snare feels awful to play - it's very, very quiet, requiring much harder strokes than is natural. The differentiation between head and rim hits is quite good. Unfortunately, though, the hotspot suppression doesn't really seem to do anything, either. Maybe the fact that I'm not using a commercially-available pad like you do in the videos has something to do with it - I'm using a homebuilt A2E set with R-Drum triggers.
Not only that, but I'm having a heck of a time with the calibration. I watched your video on pad set up and it looks very simple and intuitive, and everything just works. And then I try it myself and my experience couldn't be more different. My snare feels awful to play - it's very, very quiet, requiring much harder strokes than is natural. The differentiation between head and rim hits is quite good. Unfortunately, though, the hotspot suppression doesn't really seem to do anything, either. Maybe the fact that I'm not using a commercially-available pad like you do in the videos has something to do with it - I'm using a homebuilt A2E set with R-Drum triggers.
Re: Drum Map problem
First and foremost definitely simplify things. At this point I’d probably start all over and reset the ED10 to factory settings. Upgrade to the latest 1.4 beta as it is pretty stable now.
You have experience with the eDRUMin so some of this may be obvious but bear with me...
1. Start in SD3. Click on your snare drum and check which articulations are loaded. I use PS so I have five loaded: center, off center, edge, rimshot and sidestick. To keep it simple for now turn off everything but center, sidestick and rimshot. You can go ahead and clear the MIDI mappings for any articulation you don’t have loaded. This steps saves on memory and load times and opens up MIDI slots for adding instruments later.
2. Make note of which MIDI notes are mapped for each articulation. For me center is 38, edge is 33 and sidestick is 37.
3. Launch the control application (upgrade and reset to factory to get a clean start).
4. Plug in your snare to ED10’s input 1.
5. Select input 1 and set the pad type to Mesh Center Piezo.
6. Switch to advanced mode.
7. Ensure Note Bank 1 is selected.
8. Adjust any notes needed to match SD3’s MIDI mapping. Right clicking on the note dial changes it to a number so you easily match SD3 if it is using numbers as well.
9. Click Calibrate.
10. Hit the head of the snare paying careful attention not to hit the piezo area like the video shows. Your differing velocities will determine the overall gain for the input and the overall dynamics you will get when playing. It will also set Thresh, Scan, Hold and Decay. DO NOT hit the rim or do a rimshot.
11. Turn off calibrate and now manually calibrate the rim and rim shot using the scalers and rimshot controls.
12. For hot spot suppression the Scan time must be 2.3 or greater. If Scan is less than 2.3 after calibration then you have to manually adjust it so that it is at least 2.3. When you hit the snare the HSS controls light up to tell you what it is seeing. If you want to see HSS working then adjust it to the extreme. Set Thresh to 0 and Amount to 100 then hit right above the piezo and hear what happens.
For me HSS is very precise. I have about a 3mm diameter area right over the cone I have to hit for HSS to even kick in.
You have experience with the eDRUMin so some of this may be obvious but bear with me...
1. Start in SD3. Click on your snare drum and check which articulations are loaded. I use PS so I have five loaded: center, off center, edge, rimshot and sidestick. To keep it simple for now turn off everything but center, sidestick and rimshot. You can go ahead and clear the MIDI mappings for any articulation you don’t have loaded. This steps saves on memory and load times and opens up MIDI slots for adding instruments later.
2. Make note of which MIDI notes are mapped for each articulation. For me center is 38, edge is 33 and sidestick is 37.
3. Launch the control application (upgrade and reset to factory to get a clean start).
4. Plug in your snare to ED10’s input 1.
5. Select input 1 and set the pad type to Mesh Center Piezo.
6. Switch to advanced mode.
7. Ensure Note Bank 1 is selected.
8. Adjust any notes needed to match SD3’s MIDI mapping. Right clicking on the note dial changes it to a number so you easily match SD3 if it is using numbers as well.
9. Click Calibrate.
10. Hit the head of the snare paying careful attention not to hit the piezo area like the video shows. Your differing velocities will determine the overall gain for the input and the overall dynamics you will get when playing. It will also set Thresh, Scan, Hold and Decay. DO NOT hit the rim or do a rimshot.
11. Turn off calibrate and now manually calibrate the rim and rim shot using the scalers and rimshot controls.
12. For hot spot suppression the Scan time must be 2.3 or greater. If Scan is less than 2.3 after calibration then you have to manually adjust it so that it is at least 2.3. When you hit the snare the HSS controls light up to tell you what it is seeing. If you want to see HSS working then adjust it to the extreme. Set Thresh to 0 and Amount to 100 then hit right above the piezo and hear what happens.
For me HSS is very precise. I have about a 3mm diameter area right over the cone I have to hit for HSS to even kick in.