So to start off, I have been using my own standard 10 spoke center mounted Piezo design for the past year or so. It has worked relatively great. PS is super reliable and it is very responsive. However even with HSS and an 87% voltage divider, which definitely helped cool down the trigger, I would still get some hot spotting. I also struggled with getting consistent rim shots. Soft rims shots always triggered as edge hits and occasionally center hits right on the cone would give rim shots. I was always twerking the rim range control. Although the voltage divider helped and I was mostly really satisfied I couldn't help to think it could improve.
So I had the idea to use the standard 3 edge cone set up with one central cone for PS. I wired the 3 edge cones in parallel with typical polarity. Brass to sleeve and ceramic to tip. The central one is also wired in part but with reverse polarity a la Roland. When set to center mounted cone I am getting great PS sensitivity and with the multiple head piezos absolutely zero hot spot and no fall of in velocity at the edge. My rim and head separation is also fantastic. If I slightly miss the rim shot I get a rim hit as it does in real life. I have to be right on and it is very sensitive to rimshots. Also no more false rimshots when I hit the center cone. Just amazing separation out of the gate. I highly recommend this set up to those interest. Here is a pic of my build. I forgot to take one of it installed but you get the idea.
DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
- dsteinschneider
- Posts: 414
- Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2019 11:17 pm
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
Hi Wayne,
The looks pretty straight forward to fabricate. I have a few questions if you don't mind:
1. How thick is the plate you mounted the piezo's on?
2. It looks you're using three of the home depot brackets to mount the plate to the shell. Are you re-using the lug screws to mount the brackets?
If you have any other photos it would be great to see them.
Doug
The looks pretty straight forward to fabricate. I have a few questions if you don't mind:
1. How thick is the plate you mounted the piezo's on?
2. It looks you're using three of the home depot brackets to mount the plate to the shell. Are you re-using the lug screws to mount the brackets?
If you have any other photos it would be great to see them.
Doug
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
Hi,
I'm so interested about your experience with the new design. Could you share some info, pleae?
Thank you in advance!
I'm so interested about your experience with the new design. Could you share some info, pleae?
Thank you in advance!
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
AKA Wayne,
I'm also curious what's the size of your snare (14"?) and what's the diameter of the disk?
What kind of drum head do you use (2-ply, 3-ply)?
... and which setting in edrumin, the new one for 3-cone design?
Sorry for so many questions, but got quite excited about your design.
Thanks in advance!
I'm also curious what's the size of your snare (14"?) and what's the diameter of the disk?
What kind of drum head do you use (2-ply, 3-ply)?
... and which setting in edrumin, the new one for 3-cone design?
Sorry for so many questions, but got quite excited about your design.
Thanks in advance!
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
Hey guys. Here's an update. It is working out amazingly. The edrumin is absolutely magic! It's really a very simple build and I just took a chance using what I thought seemed logical and turns out that the edrumin just does perfectly with.
All four piezos are are wired in parallel as are the three rim piezos on the bottom. The three edge cones are wired in regular polarity, copper to sleeve and ceramic to tip. The center is wired Roland way with reverse polarity; ceramic to sleeve and brass to tip. I set the module to center trigger and Roland wiring and it just works. The PS is very accurate and precise with a little fiddling with the PS gauge.
There is absolutely no hot spot. The HSS worked well before but of course it wasnt perfect. Now it's not even needed, I mean doesn't even register. Completely enev triggering across the head and no l, I mean no hot spotting. Did I say it doesn't hot spot?
I'm using the Roland 2 ply power ply head. I like the feel of the real feel more but the accuracy and precision of PS with the Roland is much better. Until Rob optimizes the algorithm for the Reel Feel (hint, hint Rob) it's the Roland.
Also it has perfect speration between rim, head and rimshot where as before the rimshot was never as reliable. Before when I'd shank the rimshot I'd get a weird edge articulation trigger. Now I just get the rim which isore accurate to real life. Also, before a direct center hit would always lad the white line on the rimshot range right on the green border which would sometimes result in a false rimshot. Now, none of that.
I also used to have to use a 87% voltage divider to tame the trigger. Now that is not necessary at all. I have the gain at just below 5 for perfect triggering. Can't say enough good stuff.
I used a laser cutter at work to cut the 1/4in wood. If you'd like the CAD file I made I'll share it but it is for a 10 lug drum.
Hope you find some of this helpful or inspiring. Happy edrumin.
All four piezos are are wired in parallel as are the three rim piezos on the bottom. The three edge cones are wired in regular polarity, copper to sleeve and ceramic to tip. The center is wired Roland way with reverse polarity; ceramic to sleeve and brass to tip. I set the module to center trigger and Roland wiring and it just works. The PS is very accurate and precise with a little fiddling with the PS gauge.
There is absolutely no hot spot. The HSS worked well before but of course it wasnt perfect. Now it's not even needed, I mean doesn't even register. Completely enev triggering across the head and no l, I mean no hot spotting. Did I say it doesn't hot spot?
I'm using the Roland 2 ply power ply head. I like the feel of the real feel more but the accuracy and precision of PS with the Roland is much better. Until Rob optimizes the algorithm for the Reel Feel (hint, hint Rob) it's the Roland.
Also it has perfect speration between rim, head and rimshot where as before the rimshot was never as reliable. Before when I'd shank the rimshot I'd get a weird edge articulation trigger. Now I just get the rim which isore accurate to real life. Also, before a direct center hit would always lad the white line on the rimshot range right on the green border which would sometimes result in a false rimshot. Now, none of that.
I also used to have to use a 87% voltage divider to tame the trigger. Now that is not necessary at all. I have the gain at just below 5 for perfect triggering. Can't say enough good stuff.
I used a laser cutter at work to cut the 1/4in wood. If you'd like the CAD file I made I'll share it but it is for a 10 lug drum.
Hope you find some of this helpful or inspiring. Happy edrumin.
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
Thank you! I also prefer real feel head, but, well, looks that I have to buy roland one for this design.
Working PS and no hotspot without using HSS sounds like fulfilling most of my dreams. Thank you Rob and AKA Wayne!
Working PS and no hotspot without using HSS sounds like fulfilling most of my dreams. Thank you Rob and AKA Wayne!
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
The Reel-Feel will for sure work. It's all about trade off and preference. The Reel -Feel does feel better but PS take priority for me right now.
- dsteinschneider
- Posts: 414
- Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2019 11:17 pm
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
Hi Wayne,
Although my UFO cross bar plus side mounted piezo is working well enough I do occasionally hot spot and I have to favor one side of the snare for rim clicks.
I know a shop that could cut the 1/4 board. I think they could also modify your cad file to 8 lugs. I would be very appreciative if you could share the 10-lug drawing. I'll post back the 8-lug one for others.
Where did you buy the cones and piezos? I've been buying them for goedrums. Also, it looked like you were using the framing metal l brackets in the first photo but on closer look it appears to be a more "finished product". Did you fabricate those?
Thanks,
Doug
Although my UFO cross bar plus side mounted piezo is working well enough I do occasionally hot spot and I have to favor one side of the snare for rim clicks.
I know a shop that could cut the 1/4 board. I think they could also modify your cad file to 8 lugs. I would be very appreciative if you could share the 10-lug drawing. I'll post back the 8-lug one for others.
Where did you buy the cones and piezos? I've been buying them for goedrums. Also, it looked like you were using the framing metal l brackets in the first photo but on closer look it appears to be a more "finished product". Did you fabricate those?
Thanks,
Doug
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
Can you please share the piezos-jack connections?
Thanks in advance,
Thanks in advance,
Re: DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!
Hi tinkerers. I will happily share the CAD design file when I get a chance. For piezos they are 27mm for head and 35mm for rim found on Amazon. I look for the ones with the longest leads. I also found cheap cones on Amazon. For wiring I wired all piezos in parallel I used 3 to 1 lever nust to combine wired into one common wire that I attached to the jack. They work great. The three rim ceramics to ring, and brass to sleeve. The outer head piezos are ceramic to tip and brass to sleeve. The center is opposite polarity a la Roland with ceramic to sleeve and brass to tip. I select center mount and that's it. My theory is that the edruming is able to pick up the signal from the center Piezo first because it's reverse andale the PS calculation.