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Figured I'd put my FSR hihat controller details all in one post to make it easier to follow.

Ive been using a hall effect sensor for months now with really great results but figured I'd try an FSR to see what the difference was. So glad I did. This is the 1.5" square on that most people seem to use. I punched a small hole in the center to allow it to fit over the hi hat rod. The fine pedal adjustment is light years ahead of the hall effect sensor I was using. I can get every one of the 127 steps incredibly accurately now with ease.

Ive completely stripped the old lower cymbal down from the old Hall effect sensor build so I can take pictures from start to finish. Figured it might help someone.
I needed to create a flat spot in the bell of the lower cymbal so I used some epoxy putty. The measuring cup just happened to be the right size to flatten the epoxy. Just put some olive oil on the bottom of the cup so it doesn't stick!
Once it's dry, drill out the center in the epoxy from the outside. I've used a 13" old pearl E cymbal that still has the thick clear dampening layer on the inside. This lets me cut some of it away to run cables before the neoprene foam layer gets stuck down so every thing will look flat and neat.
The FSR square with the hole punched in it gets stuck down with really thin double sided tape. You don't want any flex under the sensor so don't use foam tape.

Next cut the right angle end off an old TRS cable with about 12" of cable. This will be the internal connection to the top hat with the stripped wires passed through the cymbal. Two thin wires will get soldered to the FSR sensor and also passed through the pre drilled holes in the cymbal. These 5 wires will connect to the 2 jacks in the box that will be fitted underneath. Just make sure the holes are deburred and have no sharp edges. Use hot glue to seal around the holes once the wires are through to protect them. Glue down the TRS lead inside the cymbal.

Wire the FSR and TRS leads to your jack box. This one came from a broken Jobeky cymbal.
3mm single sided adhesive EVA foam is used to cover the inside of the cymbal and a square profile rubber 'U' strip for the outside edge.
Plunger to compress the FSR comprises of two cymbal toppers and two cymbal felts being compressed by a retaining collar for travel adjustment. I have a box of cymbal felts that are all different densities. Just pick two that give you the amount of travel you require.
That's basically it. Neat simple and works amazing with the Edrumin.

More pics

More pics

More pics

Oh!!
Glad to see my original design finally made by someone (and with a great finish). You're at my knowledge one of the first who drill the hole in the middle of the FSR, just like I did about 8 years ago ! (I'm Sylv1co on Vdrums)
People often prefer to put the FSR under the pedal, but I always say that it's far better between the two cymbals.
The tricky part is to cut the hole in the fsr, it's hard and it needs to be clean enough or the fsr won't work.

Hey Sly. I read your posts on Vdrums multiple times. Your the reason I did this!
I didn't cut the FSR I used a really sharp 10mm hole punch and a hammer. The hole in my picture looks rough but that's just the double sided tape underneath. The actual hole is really clean and crisp.
Works so damn well. I can get and hold any position between 1 -127. It's so accurate. I really wanted an all in one solution to be completely self contained inside the hats. This way I can tailor the travel of the pedal just by swapping out the felts. It just seemed like a cheat to throw it under the pedal.

Thanks for the idea!

Hey sly. You’ve helped me out a ton on vdrums. I 3D printed a controller to pot in between my hats. Drilling a hole in the fsr as well. Although I mangled it while doing it it’s fine. Good to see you’ve gone to the edrumin too. That’s a nice design evh. Super clean and stealth.

I remember well your Hihat Wayne, it made me think that DIY now don't mean the same as when I start to make my own drum pads, your controller looks absolutly professional... And you're indeed one of those who drill that hole in the square FSR.
Do you still use it ?

I sure do. I have switched to LV cymbals but still use the same controller.

Eagerly following this thread, can someone offer an honest comparison between the FSR method and a controller like the VH11 / Goedrum please?

My end goal is to play what feels and sounds like a real acoustic hi-hat. SD3 with edrumin 1.3+ and 2 zone metal cymbals top and bottom gets me very close (I have a Goedrum GHC with the 3D printed mod from projectbeats), but very intrigued by the FSR approach.