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I'm in isolation with Corona and trying to get on top of my drum config to help with the insanity of it all and I'm just starting to feel like giving up and trashing my kit. I feel very underqualified trying to make an e kit, I had this a few months back but was encouraged to push on when I ordered my edrumin

I made a 3 way Yamaha style cymbal for my hihat and an hall sensor foot controller, but edrumin can only detect the bell switches and piezo on the cymbal and gets absolutely nothing on the controller.

I actually get signal on the controller by rubbing the magnet on the jack connector. So the cable is ok.

I'll attach photos of my work, it's not aesthetically pleasing. Once I figure out how to attach images.

I followed instructions on the Megadrum forums as exactly as I could. I ran the tip wire to the brass, the ceramic to the sleeve. I attached a resistor onto the edge switch out of the ring wire, and same for the bell minus the resistor, then from the switches to the sleeve.

I would test it on my Megadrum module but that has mysteriously blue screened today. FML.

I don't know how you're all whipping up conversion kits and designing cymbals like it ain't no thing, it's taken me a whole year just to get my head around everything.

I can't speak for others here, but personally I don't use DIY pads at all. I tried many years ago, but I just didn't have the tools and materials to do a proper build. I think most successful DIY builds involve assembling commercially available parts as opposed to making them from scratch.

I'm not sure when you purchased your eDRUMin, but the first thing I would do is to make sure your are running the latest version of the firmware.

As for your cymbal, show us the schematic you're using. There's an "Attachments" tab for including pics. Have you tested your wiring of your TRS connector with a multimeter? When the edge switch is pressed, the resistance between the RING and the SLEEVE should be 10K.

I can second what Rob said. My A2E is built with commercially bought triggers and cymbals. The DIY part for me is really just assembling the commercial products. I tried making a hi-hat from scratch but found I just don’t have the tools, skills or the patience to build something worthy. And to try to get three zones out of a 14” cymbal like you are doing makes it even more challenging. Although I’d love to have a 3-zone metal hi-hat as SD3 has articulations for hi-hat bell.

Rob wrote:There's an "Attachments" tab for including pics.

There is? I’ve looked high and low but I don’t see it.

Still wasn't able to find the attachments so I made an album on Imgur:

http://imgur.com/a/nSXSp99

Again I appreciate I'm not the master solderer

I looked at the photos, very interesting. Adam of Mryk Membranes provided cross section PDF's where there is a layer of foam and then rubber on top of the membranes if you are using them for edge hits.

I second using commercial products to build A2E conversion but my copies of Pintech TC 16's for chokeable single zone crashes are working extremely well. It's much simpler than tackling a 3 zone. After building those I more appreciate the Yamaha PC155 for 3 zone ride and PCY135 for 3 zone hi-hat I'm using.

Would you happen to have that PDF anywhere? Does Adam have an email?

It's possible I've wired the switches the wrong way round, and the piezo is still picking up fine

I couldn't really tell from your pictures, but I don't think I saw a 10k resistor anywhere.

Polyphonics wrote:Would you happen to have that PDF anywhere? Does Adam have an email?

Contact them through eBay and ask for the documentation. They send it out pretty quickly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Myrk-Membrane- ... 2401098849

Rob wrote:I couldn't really tell from your pictures, but I don't think I saw a 10k resistor anywhere.

You're not wrong, it was hidden under the heat shrink, the one closest to the ring connector