hall sensor for hihat input wiring diagram.

[thenewdrummer]

If you can use a DRV5056 and power it externally, you will get much better results than using ss49e. The DRV5056 will provide about 5 times the resolution which is very important small movements of a magnet.

Can I just buy a power supply like this one, remove the connector and strip the wires: https://www.amazon.com/Belker-Voltage-U ... B00ZWU5L0C


Then soldier it like this, or it's a recipe for disaster ? I'm no good in electronic, so I don't know if I'm missing some parts, or like if it's better to do it with a board and if it's ok to only cover it with electrical tape or if it can start a fire

Hall Sensor.png (214.71 KiB) Viewed 1399 times

[mprinz]

Hi,

I wire it like you, except the 3.3 V to the ring. I leave it blank, the sensor doesnt need it. I did connect it, but that led to a strange behaviour, even, if i remember correctly.

Yesterday I tested with some setups. And yeahhh... It really nice.

Rob, using this magnet setup it's the case that the flux is building up, and when moving further it dips and becomes higher again.

I thing I will test a few metal washers if the flux going out is more "usable".

IMG_20201204_214243.jpg (1.28 MiB) Viewed 1394 times

This way its ok, but one should not go beyond the first maximum.

[thenewdrummer]

Hi,

I wire it like you, except the 3.3 V to the ring. I leave it blank, the sensor doesnt need it. I did connect it, but that led to a strange behaviour, even, if i remember correctly.

Yesterday I tested with some setups. And yeahhh... It really nice.

Rob, using this magnet setup it's the case that the flux is building up, and when moving further it dips and becomes higher again.

I thing I will test a few metal washers if the flux going out is more "usable".

IMG_20201204_214243.jpg

This way its ok, but one should not go beyond the first maximum.

You seem to have used a breadboard instead of directly soldering the wires.
Is it better / safer? And is it a battery that I see?

What do you mean by go beyond first maximum?

[thenewdrummer]

Just reread the thread for the 4th time. I understand better now.

Which version should I use?

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/deta ... 1/10434634

Or

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/deta ... ZT/9692620

[mprinz]

I used a 9V block for tests. Yes. It's connected to a USB power supply board that came with an Arduino UNO microcontroller set.
I find it very versatile for those projects.

https://www.conrad.com/p/joy-it-b-pow-e ... cs-1527413

And the nice thing is, the original HiHat controller has got the same DC jack, so I will use that option.
I could also use the USB power.

I use the TO-92 version of the sensor with the three long legs.
And I used the A1 version, the most sensitive. That leads to a huge detectable travel range. Tunable by the strength of the magnetic flux.

I will upload a short video an pics in a few minutes.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

I want to change to 3-wire cables, but I have to organize some ...

THe magnets are quite strong...

Rob, am I right leaving the ring on the TRS blank? It seems to me a bit noisy. If its not pushed it quiet.

Regards

[thenewdrummer]

I will upload a short video an pics in a few minutes.

Looking forward to it

[mprinz]

Ahhhh wonderfull !

I got rid of the Millenium HiHat controller...
Only the real hi-hat stand mechanics and me, and the larger travel ... very nice, much more
real.

[Rob]

Rob, am I right leaving the ring on the TRS blank? It seems to me a bit noisy. If its not pushed it quiet. Regards

Yes, leave it unconnected. Just to be clear for others, he's talking about the ring connection on that TRS connector that will plug into the pedal input.

[thenewdrummer]

I used a 9V block for tests. Yes. It's connected to a USB power supply board that came with an Arduino UNO microcontroller set.
I find it very versatile for those projects.

https://www.conrad.com/p/joy-it-b-pow-e ... cs-1527413

And the nice thing is, the original HiHat controller has got the same DC jack, so I will use that option.
I could also use the USB power.

I use the TO-92 version of the sensor with the three long legs.
And I used the A1 version, the most sensitive. That leads to a huge detectable travel range. Tunable by the strength of the magnetic flux.

I will upload a short video an pics in a few minutes.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

I want to change to 3-wire cables, but I have to organize some ...

THe magnets are quite strong...

Rob, am I right leaving the ring on the TRS blank? It seems to me a bit noisy. If its not pushed it quiet.

Regards

You have a really nice setup. A lot of computer screens

We really see the full range of the pedal in the video.

I'll order the parts to do it too

[mprinz]

Oh, yeah ... These are old pics.

This is today, the small table and the smal 24" TFT are out of order.
It was difficult to look an the screen to the side.

Now, just the 2 on the desk and the 47" LED I love it.

This is today: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s54xuB ... sp=sharing
Remember, all cheap components, except Robs devices - of course - and the 3 CY-5 Roland cymbals.
This Gear4Music Sample Pad is awesome!
The routing is done - if I want to do some live looping - thru Ableton Live and the Novation Launch Pad mini ... I really like coloured lights and buttons - and screens.

Coming back to the topic:

And: Last new part of gear: my new hihat controller using a 0,68 € hall sensor! hahaha! Baaaaam!

PS: I tried a cheap buttkicker, and also that part stays here. It feels like on a huge stage ...