DIY: 3+ Cone Builds!!!

[nemo]

Hi,

As I promised to keep you posted, here is the follow up.

The cones arrived, they are very soft, softer than any other I tried in the past (several years already)
I tried with the dot of ceramic size - very sensitive response indeed. But still hotshots (4), not detectable by edrumin.
So i kept increasing tension, calibrating, tweaking, and so on a few rounds. Still hotspots.

Then lowering the disk (one washer) and the above procedure again. And minus one washer, and again.

Then I thought maybe I'll increase the size of the dot below piezo. Little bit better, so again: tension,washer and so on.

I ended up with with all combinations checked.
At the very end the roland mesh head tore apart: tension too big, and now aluminum is separated from the mesh. I guess AKA Wayne this happened to you as well some time ago, if I remember your post correctly...

As I didn't want to give up I tried the real head. And ended up with acceptable PS, but not perfect. Almost no central hotspot (it's getting detected at least, if I want to tweak in the future). The other 3 hotspots still exist, not detectable by edrumin.

So now I have to either live with it or go back to my separate device with trilateration I mentioned in other threads. But the device doesn't have such nice UI and tweaking == reprogramming.

So AKA Wayne looks you are the lucky one

If anybody repeated AKA Wayne's success please let us know here.

By the way, I also tested the 3-piezo option of edrumin, no success whatsoever, but it was not designed for diy stuff.

So guys, that would be all from me...

[AKA Wayne]

Sorry you didn't have success. I will try to replicate my success again at some point. I played on it for about an hour last night and it was great.

I also had no success with the three cone options on edrumin but the mesh head center Roland setting is gold for me. Guess I'm lucky.

[AKA Wayne]

How far above the rim are your cones? Mine are just 1mm above and for me thats a huge difference. Any more and it's no good.

[nemo]

I have tried different heights. From 2mm till below 0mm. This is what I called "adding/removing washers" in my post.

... "Then lowering the disk (one washer) and the above procedure again. And minus one washer, and again."...

[nemo]

AKA Wayne, short question: what happens when you hit one of the 3 cones close to the rim? No hotspot either?

[AKA Wayne]

No hotspot. I'll try to take the bottom off tonight and take a picture for you. I've got it wired in parallel. All 3 edge head ceramics into one 4 to 1 lever nut that combines the wires into one that is wired to the tip. The center head Piezo has the brass wired to this block so combines into the same line that is wired to tip. The same is done for the brass of the edge triggers and ceramic of the center and goes to the sleeve. You sure you're in parallel?

I'm using these types of gizmos. You should post a picture of your build.aybe I can help to see any differences better that way.

[AKA Wayne]

No hotspot. I'll try to take the bottom off tonight and take a picture for you. I've got it wired in parallel. All 3 edge head ceramics into one 4 to 1 lever nut that combines the wires into one that is wired to the tip. The center head Piezo has the brass wired to this block so combines into the same line that is wired to tip. The same is done for the brass of the edge triggers and ceramic of the center and goes to the sleeve. You sure you're in parallel?

I'm using these types of gizmos. You should post a picture of your build.aybe I can help to see any differences better that way.

12 PCS Lever Wire Nut Connectors, Quick Wiring Cable Connector Push-in Conductor Terminal Block, 1 in 4 Out Wire Connectors for 28-12 AWG, Orange https://a.co/d/a3t9QT8

[nemo]

Yes, they are in parallel, center with reversed polarity.
Head piezos to tip, rim piezos to ring, all brass (apart from the center one) to sleeve.

[nemo]

The bottom.
Everything soldered and measured with multimeter.
The wires going to lever nut connector soldered and measured as well before inserting. And measured after inserting. As I know the lever nut connectors can cause troubles.
The hotspots are the proof they are connected.
Thanks for the picture of the bottom of yours snare in advance!

[AKA Wayne]

Those lever nuts are tricky. I would plug a cable into your trs jack and test the continuity from the tips, ring and sleeve on your cable to each Piezo, ceramic and brass. If one is off it will mess the signal up. I figured that out and it took a lot of fiddling before I got it right. What I found was to strip more bare wire than I thought necessary before inserting them in the lever nut. Also youay want tooventhe rim triggers to the broom of the plate. As stated before they do need to communicate with the head piezos.

On the Roland head, I chalked it up to uneven tightening and using a cheapo snare. I cranked each lug down with about 5 rotations at once which resulted in uneven tension and bending of the metal hoop as I went around. Also the cheapo snare had a thin collar on the cheapo drum hoop which I believeade things worse. I did epoxy the head back in the metal hoop but the damage was done. It was too stretched out. I got a new one and a Gibraltar hoop and was more careful to evenly tighten the head to 75 on my drum dial. Hope this all helps and you get it working. I'm rooting for ya.

1125230618~2.jpg (209.75 KiB) Viewed 8835 times

The red wire goes to sleeve and that black goes to tip since this jack was used for a Roland style wiring center mount single Piezo diy set up. The other black wire is just left open and goes to sleeve. I should close that off but o well. Not hurting anything I guess.