hall sensor for hihat input wiring diagram.

[mprinz]

Oh, ok. Already?
Cool. So, external power. 3.3V.
That might by the problem of my first trials. Not enough juice. I actually did not try 3.3 V externally powered.

So what current did you limit the input?

[Polyphonics]

was there any conclusion drawn here as to what is the best hall sensor to use?

[mprinz]

So I got my A1 and the results are mixed. Powered by the 3.3v of the eDRUMin, it's a no go. The power from the eDRUMin runs through a 200 ohm current limiting resistor, and so there's just not enough juice.

If I bypass the current limiting resistor, or power it externally, it works very well. Extremely sensitive with a healthy voltage range (about 85%)

That's the conclusion by Rob.
For me, that means, taking TI hall sensor and power it externaly.
I have several DC adapter around the edrum set, so... Actually from the original Millenium DC power supply.

Anyway, I ordered 2 of each type of the TI sensor, meaning different detection ranges of magnetic fields. So, if the sensor fits electrically, it depends on the combination of magnetic field strength (actually distance then) and sensor type.

And thats cool, I guess you can use a strong magnet and high sensitivity of the sensor if you like a short distance between the hats and a weak magnet and low sense sensor for a large distance.
Or other combinations....
On the standard hihat controller you have a fixed distance, havent you?

[Polyphonics]

I'll be honest I'm not sure I fully understand your comment, other than needing external power for the sensors I ordered, which just seems not worth the effort for me as I move my kit around and it's just more stuff to plug in and potentially break.

Is there not a sensor that works well with EDs HH input and can utilise 4cm of range with good sensitivity?

[Rob]

Is there not a sensor that works well with EDs HH input and can utilise 4cm of range with good sensitivity?

Not that I know of. There's a reason why Hall effect based hihat controllers are all externally powered. Not Roland, not Yamaha, an not eDRUMin can supply enough power. Any time a device exposes power to the outside world, you have to take precautions in the case of a short circuit. The usual solution is to add current limiting resistors (as I have done) to prevent too much current from being drawn and causing damage. Unfortunately, if the device you are trying to power (in this case a Hall effect sensor) consumes too much power, the voltage begins to drop, and that can cause problems.

I've been playing around with a new circuit to provide power to the pedal input. It's more expensive in terms of cost and PCB real-estate, but if I can get it working properly, future versions of eDRUMin will not have this limitation.

[mprinz]

I'll be honest I'm not sure I fully understand your comment, other than needing external power for the sensors I ordered, which just seems not worth the effort for me as I move my kit around and it's just more stuff to plug in and potentially break.

I don't know actually how to move my set... Really. It will be painfull.
But if you have the edrumin nearby your hats - so the usb cable - you have 5V and several 100mA left.

There are those DC-DC 5V to 3.3V Step-Down Voltage Regulators with usb jack... Or: For testing I use a
dc-dc <12V(jack)/USB to 5V/3.3V adapter from an Arduino set that is powered by a 9V block.

I would not quit this project, because I guess with the TI DRV5056 A1 QLPGM and an adequate magnet you can detect 4 cm travel range.
Yesterday I tested the sensors on a bread board and I am satisfied . Now I have to find a way to attach it to the hats.

[thenewdrummer]

Does the ss49e need to be manufactured by Honeywell or any manufacturer with this model would work? Don't know if there's difference in quality.

[Rob]

If you can use a DRV5056 and power it externally, you will get much better results than using ss49e. The DRV5056 will provide about 5 times the resolution which is very important small movements of a magnet.

[thenewdrummer]

If you can use a DRV5056 and power it externally, you will get much better results than using ss49e. The DRV5056 will provide about 5 times the resolution which is very important small movements of a magnet.

I would love to but I have absolutely no idea how to power it. That's why I was safer with the other one.

I imagine it's only a question of burying the right power supply and soldering 2 wires?

[Rob]

If you were savvy enough (and willing to void your warranty), you could mod your device and get power from the 3.3V regulator inside it. You would just have to be careful not to short it to ground, or you would starve the MCU (processor).

My ED4R2 prototype has a more advanced way of supplying 3.3V to the pedal input and it can power the DRV5056 directly.