help with 3 zone metal cymbal input

[Mr_Bluesguy]

What, you have to do play your e-kit later night because your wife is noisy? >
Er, sorry...
Yes, using cym guards for dampening around 30-40% of the circumference in the front of the cymbal. It still leaves a small amount of metallic timbre instead of the full dead clack you get with full edge coverage. I really hate that. But it is enough dampening for edrumin to do its magic. This also provides an elegant solution to cymbal rotation (if you're not placing your cymbals flat). The cymbal always orients with the edging at the front, or lowest part of the cymbal tilt. Thank you, gravity! It can be held in place with any flexible adhesive like a hot glue gun, but I prefer silicone RTV.
By the way, I checked Myrk's site and I'm thinking I'm going to get some experimental pieces as well.

And- #AKA Wayne- I'm assuming your response about two zone edge and bell was in reference to the hi-hat question? So the switch is really effective in giving zone separation? What happens as you have different degrees of closing? Also, yes share your 1/4" project box scheme

[AKA Wayne]

Here are the files for my trigger box. Also some pictures too. I never bothered to print a lid and install inserts so that is why the wiring is exposed. Haha. It works as intended.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E6u2v5 ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1al1QLy ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Ngzh3 ... sp=sharing

[Mr_Bluesguy]

Nice design! Thanks for sharing.

[Ronyd]

What, you have to do play your e-kit later night because your wife is noisy? >
Er, sorry...
Yes, using cym guards for dampening around 30-40% of the circumference in the front of the cymbal. It still leaves a small amount of metallic timbre instead of the full dead clack you get with full edge coverage. I really hate that. But it is enough dampening for edrumin to do its magic. This also provides an elegant solution to cymbal rotation (if you're not placing your cymbals flat). The cymbal always orients with the edging at the front, or lowest part of the cymbal tilt. Thank you, gravity! It can be held in place with any flexible adhesive like a hot glue gun, but I prefer silicone RTV.
By the way, I checked Myrk's site and I'm thinking I'm going to get some experimental pieces as well.

And- #AKA Wayne- I'm assuming your response about two zone edge and bell was in reference to the hi-hat question? So the switch is really effective in giving zone separation? What happens as you have different degrees of closing? Also, yes share your 1/4" project box scheme

yeah i think its advantageous to checkout out the edge switches. hell why not. I may even build a Raper circuit in to see how that works. Now that i'm removing the jack out from the box, i got space in the box now.

[AKA Wayne]

In regard to my hi hat, it is a dual zone edge/bow. No bell. I use edge switches and really highly recommend them. Super easy to dial in with the edrumin. I have a bell switch but have never used it. I find that the piezo under the bell is good enough with the edrumin and I don't like the idea of hitting some sort of rubber protecting the bell switch. I prefer the metal bell.

[Mr_Bluesguy]

In regard to my hi hat, it is a dual zone edge/bow. No bell. I use edge switches and really highly recommend them. Super easy to dial in with the edrumin. I have a bell switch but have never used it. I find that the piezo under the bell is good enough with the edrumin and I don't like the idea of hitting some sort of rubber protecting the bell switch. I prefer the metal bell.

So I finally overcame my aversion to switches and ordered some from Myrk for experimenting.
Would you mind sharing your hi hat switch mounting method/location? Pictures would be welcome as well