FSR vs Optical vs Hall

[MWJT42]

I've never quite felt confident with my Goedrum GHC (FSR) controller, so wanted to get people's impressions on what delivers the best feeling e-hihat?

I use dual metal cymbals (currently using a 3D printed mod for the GHC). Is optical or hall a much better solution?

(I think I understand the optical solution , but thoroughly confused on what hall even is btw)

Thanks!

[perceval]

Optical and Hall need a power source.
I went with FSR because it doesn't require one. One less thing to worry about!

I tried both under the pedal and sandwiched between the HH.
I actually preferred under the pedal. One less wire going up to the HH, and easier to dial in.

[MWJT42]

Is the pedal FSR DIY or a bought product?

I think the eDRUMin can provide power directly to an optical or hall sensor, but I hear you that it is another cable and something to go wrong.

[perceval]

Very DIY! but oh so simple.

Take an old plastic cutting board, cut to a shape that fits on the base of your pedal. thin doubla face tape to secure the FSR to it, more double face tape to place a piece of foam on the FSR. Adjust height of pedal and range to not destroy the FSR by smashing through it. Voila.
You get all levels of open/close from SD3, and easy enough to dial in the chicks and splashes.

Oh, forgot... will need a cable from the FSR to the eDRUMin, of course. Easiest was to use a 1/4" jack short wire, cut to the length needed, use a small computer fan connector, ties in both wires together.

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[evh0u812]

I'm selling my fsr controller if anyone's interested. Also my 3 edrummins. Search my posts for build details.

[mprinz]

You get all levels of open/close from SD3, and easy enough to dial in the chicks and splashes.

Hi, I like chick's!

But to you have any other idea? What else could a diy footpedal be useful for? I'm am thinking of a cowbell but any other suggestions?

[MWJT42]

Just to follow up, I trialled an optical pedal-mounted controller (Drone) - and its god awful!

edit, see update later on the thread

Worst bit of kit I've ever bought. Essentially unusable.

Calibration has very narrow range, any tiny pedal movement is grossly over interpreted and the psychological disconnect from the 'thing I want to emulate making the sound' being seen moving on the top of the stand, actually being on the bottom, is very uncomfortable and presents a weird unnatural abstraction.

Made me appreciate my Goedrum GHC much more though! Spent a bit more dialling it in and ensuring it is stable under the dual metal hats.

[mprinz]

yeah, why not. I testet one and it's works quite well. It's a linear slide potentiometer in a nice housing.
I saw no possibilty to attach a DIY slider to a hihat stand so i went with the Hall sensor.

[monospace]

Just to follow up, I trialled an optical pedal-mounted controller (Drone) - and its god awful!

Worst bit of kit I've ever bought. Essentially unusable.

Calibration has very narrow range, any tiny pedal movement is grossly over interpreted and the psychological disconnect from the 'thing I want to emulate making the sound' being seen moving on the top of the stand, actually being on the bottom, is very uncomfortable and presents a weird unnatural abstraction.

Just as a datapoint, my experience with the Drone Optical Controller is the exact opposite.

To me, it's a huge improvement over the VH-10, first because it allows me to use a bigger cymbal than the standard 12" (I'm using a CY-13 at the moment), second because I can get as much or as little movement on the pedal as I want. All I need to do is recalibrate the eDrumIn to translate that movement into the perfect response for me. In other words, I can play with a simulated "almost closed" hihat, or one with a 4 inch gap between cymbals, and the eDrumIn makes it feel perfectly natural and realistic. The VH-10 by contrast had a very narrow range of motion.

If you're feeling a disconnect between the movement of your pedal and the playing response, it's all in the calibration. (Don't forget you can manually draw the sides of that green calibration response bar to make it work for you!)

The only drawback, as others have pointed out, is that direct sunlight will interfere with the optical sensors. There are probably ways around that too, but I play mostly in the evening so it's not bothering me.

[monospace]

I had some packing foam lying around, plus some cable ties and a glue gun, so I made a little cave for my Drone sensor. Total cost: ~3¢ and now I don’t have to recalibrate the thing all the time for daytime or nighttime playing.